It is always such an honor for me to be featured on Forbes.com with my peers. Obviously Forbes sets the industry standard in so many fields and whenever they recognize little ole me as a travel expert, I’m absolutely grateful. The writer of the piece Laura Begley Bloom has been so supportive of me and ‘N A Perfect World upon our meeting in 2017 and I can’t thank her enough.
This time, I’m discussing the places that should be on your 2019 bucket list along with some of my favorite nomadic women. The fun twist this time around: we’re talking USA!
Traveling within the USA is definitely something I want to do more of and do think it’s wild that I’m more comfortable exploring the nooks and crannies of far flung cultures more than my own. I chose Nashville. Check out why at Forbes.com!
This list has definitely inspired me. Have any travel plans in 2019? Where are you headed next? Drop a line, let me know!
I’ve had the itch to go to Morocco for years now. I’d talk about Marrakesh with my mum, toyed with the idea of visiting for a weekend with friends while I studied abroad in Milan, watched Casablanca and poured over magically “exotic” Moroccan cities of yore in books like Tahir Shah’s The Caliph’s House (Casablanca) and The Saffron Gate by Linda Holeman (1930s Marrakech). Maybe this is what put Fez in the back of my mind, but when planning our trip to Morocco, party brunches in Marrakesh with horses painted like zebras didn’t seem like our speed. We wanted to experience true Moroccan culture, food, and yes, luxury and after a little research, we found Fez to be the perfect place for us. In the lowlands of Northern Morocco, the 1,200 yr old city of Fes has long been thought of Morocco’s cultural and spiritual center.
You haven’t really seen the real Morocco until you’ve been to Fez we heard. And this city of just over 1 million people is often skipped by the typical tourist, naturally Michele and I decided to start our trip to Morocco here.
The medina of Fez is the largest medina in the world and a designated UNESCO world heritage site. It contains two of the city’s 3 main areas.
Old Fez, el Bali is an ancient car-free area from the 9th century. New Fez, El Djedid, not so new, dates from the 13th century and Ville Nouvelle is the modern Fez created during the French occupation in the early 1900s. Spend an afternoon wandering around Fez’s medina — it has over 9,500 alleyways. Beware of “good samaritans” offering to “show you the way,” especially at night. They’re not dangerous but can really throw you for a loop on the way to your destination and definitely will ask you for a fee. They may be persistent, but a simple, “no, I’m fine” will do.
Be sure to visit the blue gate, The Bar Bou Jeloud gate (it’s green from the inside like many of the green tiled roofs).
Home to Al Karaween, the oldest university in the world, founded in the 9th century as a mosque and religious center by a woman I might add — Fez sees many spiritual tourists from the Islamic world. Al Karaween mosque can hold 20,000 praying Muslims. Most of the green tiled roofs you see are connected to the university. Do note that while the mosques are among the main attractions in town, they do restrict entry to Muslims only.
So Fez smells perhaps a bit different from other cities and that’s because of the famed Fez Tannery. The Chouara tannery in Fez has been around since the 11th c. The dyes used in the tannery pits are natural: Blue comes from indigo; red, from poppy or paprika; yellow, from saffron, pomegranate, or a mix of turmeric and mimosa flowers. There are a few roof terrace vantage points that a friend we made at breakfast showed us. How did she find La Belle Vue Tannerie? She said she just looked up and went to different places! We followed her. The goods at La Belle Vue de la Tannerie were also of amazing quality but they didn’t pressure us to buy anything just to see the view. You also can get things custom made; tailors can copy a motorcycle jacket for you in three or four hours from goat or lambskin, the softest of the hides…. The more I think about it the more I need another shopping trip to Fez!
Wander along the main thoroughfares like the Attarine souk on Rue Talaa Kebira and do some shopping. Lanterns, rugs, you’ll absolutely find some great home decor and remember to bargain, bargain, bargain. I wish I did it even more. Stop by a souk as the scent of jasmine, cardamom, roses and new spices waft through the air and imagine all the delicious tajine you’ll consume after.
Morocco is famed for its argan oil. There are many shops that will take you through the healing properties of these oils.
As you can see from my Perfect Stay post Dar 7 Louyat is really special to Michele and me. From the welcoming smiles of our hosts who bent over backwards to make our stay comfortable, to the cooking class, to feeling like we had the riad to ourselves, I would definitely recommend a stay here in the heart of the medina. While peaceful and relaxing with the birds chirping in the atrium, it is a swan dive into medina life right outside of your door in the best of ways.
Hotel Sahrai is a gorgeous luxury hotel in the new city with beautiful views of the old city. Catering to Western guests (many from New York) the hotel does indeed serve alcohol in it’s restaurants (two) as well as poolside and has a delicious wine list of Moroccan wines. The rooms are delicious fresh and clean and the decor is “zen Moroccan.” Colorful tilework is replaced by stone etchings and beautiful pieces from Moroccan artists decorate the minimalist lobby. Also, have a luxe hammam experience in the Sahrai’s Givenchy spa. For us, we had an extra night / day in Fez after driving to Chefchaouen and back for an overnight. Staying at Hotel Sahrai provided the a much needed relaxing retreat and escape. Here’s an IGTV showing our room.
The Riad Idrissy is a beautiful restored — but not too restored — riad. The decor evokes the wear and tear and casual luxury of boho chic in it’s 5 rooms.
Our favorite meal we had in Morocco was honestly one that we made ourselves. It was a delicious date and apricot beef tajine that has me craving my favorite Moroccan spot in Brooklyn as I’m writing this. Fassi cuisine is a melting pot of Morocco’s history, Arab, French, Moor and Ottoman Turk.
Our first meal was super local. Honestly we’re not even sure of the name of the place. Our hosts at Dar 7 Louyat recommended it as it was a good place, they eat, around the corner from the hotel. It was a quick snack of delicious mezze that we kind of ordered pointing at the menu and hoping for the best.
If you can’t stay at Riad Idrissy at least have a delicious meal at The Ruined Garden, the Riad’s leafy, relaxing restaurant. The beautiful garden space may entice you but the delicious Moroccan classics like the lamb pastilla is going to make you stay. A relaxed almost overgrown garden, The Ruined Garden is an oasis from what can be a hectic medina.
Café Clock is a Fez institution with a location in Marrakesh as well. The restaurant and cultural center (you can take cooking and music lessons) is famed for their camel burger.
Try Nur for modern new-age Moroccan cuisine like “deconstructed” tajines or Mexican flavors.
Fancy a drink? You’ll see plenty of advertisements for happy hour but do take note, many of the bars and restaurants in Fez are on the surface, alcohol free. Honestly it didn’t both Michele and I very much. We are fresh juice fiends but should you fancy a drink, the rooftop bar at Hotel Sahrai The Rooftop, is the place to be. Beautiful views of the old city, top DJs and definitely an international set will draw you to this space.
Tip: Always go for the breakfast in your riad. It’s sometimes a little extra but definitely well worth it. Think about it, it’s one less thing to worry about to start your day. You’re full, fresh and ready to explore! Our delicious breakfast at Dar 7 Louyat consisted of yummy omelettes, french toast, moroccan breads, and local fruits and fresh juices and coffee.
Morocco is a Muslim country with some cities (Marrakesh) being more Western than others. For Fez, a city with fewer tourists and still considered the spiritual center, it’s best to cover your shoulders and wear a long skirt or loose trousers for women, especially in the old medina. Men are find in a t-shirt and shorts. Yes, when traveling during the summer as we did in June it can be hot, but trust me, not as hot as the flush you’ll feel when attracting stares from your mini skirt. You’ll see most of the older men in loose trousers and shirts in light, breathable fabrics. Jeans, especially skinny jeans were primarily worn by young Moroccans. When staying at luxury hotels like Hotel Sahrai, the dress code is a little more lax and Western.
There’s more to Morocco than Casablanca and Marrakech. Michele and I were determined to make my birthday trip to Morocco truly unique. We wanted a crash course in the “real” Morocco, so we headed to Fez, the country’s spiritual and cultural center. Like the smells of pigeon excrement and jasmine blossoms pervading the alleyways, Fes was a city of beautiful contradictions. Come explore with us!
Music by Kevin McLeod
Have you ever been to Fez? What’s your favorite city in Morocco?
** Instagram launched IGTV the day that we got to Fez, so here’s a little taste of what’s really our first video with vertical shooting in mind on my IGTV.
This is a story I’ve wanted to write for some time now. With the beautiful send offs of Aretha Franklin and John McCain as well as halloween around the corner, I’ve been thinking about the idea of death and how it’s perceived in different cultures. My family is West Indian. When someone dies, there is a wake that lasts almost a week, that to an outside observer, may seem like an inappropriate party. In Jamaican tradition it’s called Nine-Night. This practice, a celebration of the person’s life and a “send off” of them into death so to speak, can be seen in other cultures; an Irish wake is a well known one for example. Sitting shiva in the Jewish culture lasts a week long, but isn’t as turnt up as West Indian or Irish. While in New Orleans on a Sunday, I saw beautiful brass bands celebrating the passing of someone during second lines. In New Orleans, funeral processions play solemn music on the way to the cemetery and joyous music on the way back. There is also a history of rejoicing at death through music in West African burial traditions. Yes there is sadness but there is also joy. Funerals and death can be a family gathering celebrating the deceased’s life. In Mexico Día de los Muertos happens to be around Halloween but it is a celebration of death and loved ones that have passed.
Montmartre Cemetery in Paris
This all being said, our Western culture has a macabre fascination with death and with cemeteries. Often thought of as spooky and haunted here in the US. The scene of Halloween ghouls, cemeteries get a bad rep. Who remembers being told as a kid to hold your breath when you pass a cemetery as to not breath in the spirits of the dead? However, if you look at it objectively, cemeteries are some of the most beautiful parks in the world, especially in cities. Historical respect for the dead often gave them prime real-estate — sometimes hillside and in some cities, like Paris, cemeteries with their planning and architecture feel like perfectly curated mini neighborhoods. Here are some of the best cemeteries in the world that draw thousands and in some cases millions of visitors each year, whether or not they have loved ones buried there!
Lafayette Cemetery in New Orleans
The St. Louis Cemetery // New Orleans, Louisiana
The St. Louis Cemetery in New Orleans was given the moniker City of the Dead by Mark Twain and the name stuck for many of the sprawling cemeteries in the Southern city. Rows and lanes of beautiful ornate tombs, fresh flowers and yea, the more than occasional ghost sighting makes St. Louis cemetery as bustling as the city outside of its gates. The latest celebrity tomb is that of Nicholas Cage — definitely a sight. If you’re a movie buff, head to the Garden District (a must see area in New Orleans anyway), the stunning Lafayette cemetery has served as the backdrop for scenes from movies like Interview with the Vampire (a tomb here was the inspiration for Lestad’s crypt — Anne Rice’s home is down the street), Double Jeopardy, CW’s hearththrob-filled series, Originals and many more.
Another beautiful cemetery built into the hills of the bohemian Montmartre arrondissement of Paris is the gorgeous Montmartre Cemetery.
Père Lachaise Cemetery // Paris, France
Hmm, is it a French thing? Do they just know how to rest eternally the right way? The most visited cemetery in the world is the Père Lachaise cemetery in Paris. Three of the most visited graves in this cemetery are Oliver Wilde’s beautiful sphinx tomb adorned with red-lipstick kisses, the Doors’ Jim Morrison — just follow the music — and another music legend, Frédéric Chopin.
In the heart of Brooklyn, true to its borough, Green-Wood is happening. Often hosting fun events, like musical concerts on the grounds, Green-Wood seems like a lively place for your final resting place. Created in the mid 1800s, it was considered Brooklyn’s first public park way before the creation of Prospect Park and the popularity of Green-Wood actually inspired the city to create Central Park. Famous residents include Jean-Michel Basquiat and Leonard Bernstein.
Sayulita Cemetery // Sayulita, Mexico
A Mexican fall tradition that has crossed over into the US is Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead (11/2). It’s a festival to remember friends and family who have died. Yes, it is mournful, but it is also beautifully colored. One of my favorite cemeteries in the world is Sayulita Cemetery, in Sayulita, Mexico. Perched on a hill overlooking the water and surf of Playa de los Muertos, you have to go through this cemetery on your walk to the beach. Like the town, it is small and colorfully rustic and no matter how crowded this little town gets over the years, the Sayulita Cemetery is still a place to find some serenity.
The Memorial Necrópole Ecumenica // Santos, Brazil
It’s an age-old problem, as real estate rises, the premium goes up on space for the dead. The Memorial Necrópole Ecumenica in Santos, Brazil has gone the way real-estate professionals have done for ages, build up! Started in 1983, today, it measures 108 meters tall, features 25,000 tombs, several wake rooms, crypts, mausoleums, a peacock garden with its own small waterfall and even a chapel and snack bar on the roof.
Closer to heaven, huh?
Morne-à-l’Eau Cemetery // Guadeloupe, F.W.I
And last on my list is my favorite cemetery in the world. It’s so damn Instagrammable. While on a trip with Guadeloupe’s tourism board my fellow journalists and I drove past this cemetery in the commune Morne-à-l’Eau. We insisted the driver stop and give us time in this BEAUTIFUL place. The tiled black and white on the tombs and graces symbolize the passing from light to dark. A beautiful site to see, I could spend hours here. From what I heard, this cemetery is lit on All Saints Day. At dusk, candles are actually lit and this beautiful cemetery glows on the hill.
Take a tour around the beautiful Guadeloupe Cemetery!
Have you ever visited a cemetery while touring a city? What are some of your favorites around the world?
Did you know the average tourist spends two nights in Rome? It’s such a huge city with so many neighborhoods to discover, so when I first heard this stat, I thought, “how crazy!” But then I realized, my first visit to Rome was no more than 3 nights and with just the tourist sites being on my itinerary. But still, I hadn’t seen Rome. I’m still discovering Rome!
What if you’re looking for a different way to explore Rome? You still want to hit the tourist sites but maybe you’re looking for a more curated experience. That’s where the tour company Roma Experience comes in. Seeing the eternal city at dawn, Nero’s golden pleasure palace, a VR tour of the Colosseum are just a few of the special experiences this tour company offers. I had the pleasure of flashing back to my college days and fine art classes with a tour of Caravaggio and an exclusive visit to a first-class restoration lab, Merlini Storti where they restore paintings around the world from artists like Caravaggio, Raphael and Tintoretto.
If you’re an art nut listen up! Have you ever waited on line for ages to see at Caravaggio or a Titian at the MET or the Vatican, or National Museum? Did you know that in Rome, you have access to Caravaggios for free?! Caravaggio came into prominence during the Counter reformations where art and God were being brought closer to the people; paintings were being brought closer to commoners and commoners closer to the paintings. One could see both divinity and reality in art. When he arrived in Rome, it was the city of Christianity, the city of pilgrimage, the city of corruption and the city of prostitution. And that’s all reflected in his paintings — you just need to know how to look at them! And that’s what Roma Experience does. The guides implore you to open your eyes and they’ll take you through Caravaggio’s Rome.
The highlight of this experience was seeing restoration done at the Merlini-Storti Art Restoration in the heart of the city. All of those pieces painted centuries ago need a little TLC and this restoration lab is one of the best. This behind-the-scenes access until now was just that, something done behind closed doors. But Merlini-Storti recently focused on sharing their knowledge with public for people to be more sympathetic with the issue of conservation. Art through such an intimate experience. It’s a little bit of slow tourism, an off the beaten path experience in a city’s who streets you think you know everything about.
So the next time you’re in Italy, stay in Rome that extra night and have a truly unique experience with Roma Experience Tours. Check out a preview of my tour!
I absolutely love a sweet and savory tagine. One of my mom and my favorite places in the city is a Moroccan restaurant and despite wanting to try other things on the menu, I never can resist the lamb tagine with apricots and dates.
So, when Dar 7 Louyat offered Michele and me a traditional Moroccan cooking lesson as part of our stay we jumped at the opportunity. It’s definitely fun to explore a market in a new city but the be immersed in a local experience like we were when shopping with Naima for our tagine ingredients, gave us a whole other view of the souk. We were apart of it! Check out my latest YouTube video to find out how we made this delicious meal of a beef tagine, fava bean soup, salad and a delicious mashed pepper and eggplant blend.
After our lesson, they plated it all beautiful for a romantic meal in the atrium.
What a unique experience. Despite the language barrier, food brings everyone together. We cooked, laughed, bonded and cried (those onions!)
Do you have a favorite tagine recipe?! Let me know!
Also be sure to watch Michele freak out over the onions! Haha
It’s hard to choose a riad when booking in Morocco. Everyone seems more splendid than the last. We’re not sure how we came to Dar 7 Louyat, as I mentioned in my previous photo diary on my stay there, but we’re thrilled that we chose this recently restored 15th century riad. It was a feast for the eyes and our hosts made us feel as though we were visiting relatives.
Here’s a video of our great stay at Dar 7 Louyat which set the tone for our Morocco trip (more videos of Fez coming soon)! Hope this makes your decision easier!
and if you want more detail on my room, check out my IGTV on @Nneya on Instagram
“There are no small riads, you’ll see.” My friend Jen joked when I told her of Michele and my plans in Morocco.
I don’t actually know how we found Dar 7 Louyat. Our stay at Dar 7 Louyat was one of the first things that came together for our stay in Morocco and it was our first stop. From our driver at the airport to our informal “bellhops” twists and turns in the medina, Dar 7 Louyat warmly embraced us and welcomed us to Morocco.
The Name. Dar is a traditional old house with typical Islamic architecture. No detail is spared in this architectural style. The craftsmanship is unbelievable and there really isn’t a moment during your stay when you’re not marveling over that carving work, or painting on a door, or tiles. It’s almost overwhelming, try getting anywhere on time! Louyat means turns and 7 twists and turns lead you to this paradise in the heart of the medina.
The house of the 7 turns this riad is a mansion from the 15th century, very close (2 minutes walk) to the oldest university in the world, the Great Mosque Qaraouyine as well as minutes away from the famed Fez tanneries. So for exploring Fez, it’s hard to find a location more perfect. The house was long inhabited by scholars of the great mosque, which perhaps lends to it’s peaceful elegance on what was once one of the most exclusive streets in the medina. It really is perfectly situated but on first glance, it is not the easiest place to get to. Dark alleyways (but it’s the medina, so that’s pretty standard) and construction make you feel as though you’re finding a paradise off the beaten path and you really are.
There are 6 suites / rooms all overlooking what seems to be the pulse of the Moroccan riad, the atrium. You’re in the heart of the medina and facing inward, technically but everything is so airy and open!
Nneya + Michele walking in atrium
Standing in front of doors
atrium walks
We stayed in the Tara Suite that’s the perfect size for a family of 4.
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Birds chirping in the morning and diving into the fountain on the ground floor, golden sunsets overlooking the medina on the terrace, this place is magical.
Every detail is insta worthy.
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I’m going to tell you about the food in an upcoming post but this is a place where you certainly want to make it for breakfast every morning!
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But it’s the people of Dar 7 Louyat that set the stage for Michele and my journey through Morocco. Rashid and his wife, Naima, welcomed us with mint tea and open arms. Mama Khadija took us under her wing in the kitchen — you’ll see that post soon. We needed to get to Chefchaouen a few days later and they guided us through sold out bus tickets and then renting a car. As we were on the road days later, Michele looks at me and said, I wonder what Mama Khadija is doing now. Over the next few days I’m going to take you through my wonderful stay at Dar 7 Louyat and then Fez in general but when people ask my my favorite city I visited in Morocco, I don’t hesitate with Fez. I travel to connect with the world and it’s people. Whether it’s through shared bread or smiles and warmth. I’ve stayed at some of the best hotels in the world that felt like sterile hospitals due to white glove staff. At Dar 7 Louyat you immediately feel like a part of the family.
The last month has been full of travel: Paris, St. Tropez, Rome, Bergamo and now I’m back in London before I head to Ibiza this afternoon. Of all of the wonderful places I’ve visited in the last month, I must say, the city of Bergamo now holds a special place in my heart. Studying abroad in Milan, Bergamo was where we students flew out of for the cheaper flights. Heading to the airport, you could see the walled city in the distance up on the hill. Always found it intriguing but you know how it goes, you never take advantage of the sites nearest to you. It took almost a decade later and a very special guy to bring me to Bergamo for a weekend. To know Bergamo is to love it. Really. Whenever I tell people that my boyfriend is from there, they either have never heard of it or go bonkers and regale me with a story about their last visit to the city. It’s pretty cool. Here’s a little Vespa ride through the city I shot for my IGTV channel. Enjoy!
“It’s good, but not like mamma makes…” If you’ve been to an Italian restaurant with an Italian person, chances are you’ve heard that phrase.
La Mia Mamma restaurant in the Chelsea neighborhood in London is giving a whole new meaning to “made in Chelsea.”
For a 28£ fixed menu that included an Aperol spritz, antipasti (3 hot, 3 cold) pasta, desert and espresso, I left pleasantly stuffed. You could have a main including in this for 10£ more (which Michele would probably do), but just the pasta was way more than enough for me. The antipasti is fresh from the market that day and the pasta is just like mamma makes it. Really. The concept of La Mamma Mia is to give the customers real Italian home cooking, 20 regions, 20 mammas cooking for you. Yes, there’s the fixed Italian restaurant menu of the chef but the specialty menu is based on the region for that month. This month (August) it’s Sicily and Sara (see her in the video below) is one of 3 wonderful mamma’s from Sicily cooking for us, taking us through summer in the sun-drenched isle of Sicily with our taste buds.
Sicily and it’s culture has always enchanted me. Italian American culture is heavily Southern and Sicilian. But Sicily, it’s Greek, Roman, Spanish and Arabic history has always gotten my history nerd rocks off. The island is on my bucket list so when my friend Marjan of Marjan Focus invited me to La Mia Mamma and I found out we’d be eating Sicilian cuisine, I couldn’t wait. Yes, there was the famed arancini then there was a casserole type potato, peas, bacon, deliciousness, polpette, stewed aubergines… Yum! This was all before our main pasta dish of a pesto with pistachio and ricotta. Don’t worry, I saved room for the Nutella and coconut mousse!
Yup, I think this place will pass the Michele seal of approval. We’ll see… Mamma Sara, I may be coming back!
Sharing antipasti with Marjan at La Mamma Mia
A delicious Sicilian pesto with pistacchio & ricotta
La Mia Mamma257 King’s Rd, Chelsea, London SW3 5EL
