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New Video! We’ll Always Have Fez!

There’s more to Morocco than Casablanca and Marrakech. Michele and I were determined to make my birthday trip to Morocco truly unique. We wanted a crash course in the “real” Morocco, so we headed to Fez, the country’s spiritual and cultural center. Like the smells of pigeon excrement and jasmine blossoms pervading the alleyways, Fes was a city of beautiful contradictions. Come explore with us!

Music by Kevin McLeod

Have you ever been to Fez? What’s your favorite city in Morocco?

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** Instagram launched IGTV the day that we got to Fez, so here’s a little taste of what’s really our first video with vertical shooting in mind on my IGTV.

 

Top Cemeteries to Visit Around the World

This is a story I’ve wanted to write for some time now. With the beautiful send offs of Aretha Franklin and John McCain as well as halloween around the corner, I’ve been thinking about the idea of death and how it’s perceived in different cultures. My family is West Indian. When someone dies, there is a wake that lasts almost a week, that to an outside observer, may seem like an inappropriate party. In Jamaican tradition it’s called Nine-Night. This practice, a celebration of the person’s life and a “send off” of them into death so to speak, can be seen in other cultures; an Irish wake is a well known one for example. Sitting shiva in the Jewish culture lasts a week long, but isn’t as turnt up as West Indian or Irish. While in New Orleans on a Sunday, I saw beautiful brass bands celebrating the passing of someone during second lines. In New Orleans, funeral processions play solemn music on the way to the cemetery and joyous music on the way back. There is also a history of rejoicing at death through music in West African burial traditions. Yes there is sadness but there is also joy. Funerals and death can be a family gathering celebrating the deceased’s life. In Mexico Día de los Muertos happens to be around Halloween but it is a celebration of death and loved ones that have passed.

Fall Foliage in Montmarte Cemetery by Nneya Richards

Montmartre Cemetery in Paris

This all being said, our Western culture has a macabre fascination with death and with cemeteries. Often thought of as spooky and haunted here in the US. The scene of Halloween ghouls, cemeteries get a bad rep. Who remembers being told as a kid to hold your breath when you pass a cemetery as to not breath in the spirits of the dead? However, if you look at it objectively, cemeteries are some of the most beautiful parks in the world, especially in cities. Historical respect for the dead often gave them prime real-estate — sometimes hillside and in some cities, like Paris, cemeteries with their planning and architecture feel like perfectly curated mini neighborhoods. Here are some of the best cemeteries in the world that draw thousands and in some cases millions of visitors each year, whether or not they have loved ones buried there!

 

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Lafayette Cemetery in New Orleans

 

The St. Louis Cemetery // New Orleans, Louisiana

The St. Louis Cemetery in New Orleans was given the moniker City of the Dead by Mark Twain and the name stuck for many of the sprawling cemeteries in the Southern city. Rows and lanes of beautiful ornate tombs, fresh flowers and yea, the more than occasional ghost sighting makes St. Louis cemetery as bustling as the city outside of its gates. The latest celebrity tomb is that of Nicholas Cage — definitely a sight. If you’re a movie buff, head to the Garden District (a must see area in New Orleans anyway), the stunning Lafayette cemetery has served as the backdrop for scenes from movies like Interview with the Vampire (a tomb here was the inspiration for Lestad’s crypt — Anne Rice’s home is down the street), Double Jeopardy, CW’s hearththrob-filled series, Originals and many more.

Michele in Montmarte cemetery by Nneya Richards

Another beautiful cemetery built into the hills of the bohemian Montmartre arrondissement of Paris is the gorgeous Montmartre Cemetery.

Père Lachaise Cemetery // Paris, France

Hmm, is it a French thing? Do they just know how to rest eternally the right way? The most visited cemetery in the world is the Père Lachaise cemetery in Paris. Three of the most visited graves in this cemetery are Oliver Wilde’s beautiful sphinx tomb adorned with red-lipstick kisses, the Doors’ Jim Morrison — just follow the music — and another music legend, Frédéric Chopin.

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Green-Wood is now an accredited Level III arboretum! We are proud to care for 510 species and cultivars of trees and shrubs and excited to provide programs and resources for you to learn all about them! . Upcoming is the Alive at Green-Wood walking tour, led by the incredibly talented @allisoncmeier at 12pm on November 11. Come learn about Green-Wood’s ecological past and present, and observe the chemical changes and breakdown of chlorophyll in the leaves of the trees (fall color)! . Find an interactive digital map of our arboretum at https://green-wood.com/trees It can be accessed on any web browser on any device! . . #aliveatgreenwood #urbanarboretum #urbanforest #autumnfoliage #forestbathing #historicgreenwood #brooklyn #newyork

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Green-Wood Cemetery // Brooklyn, New York

In the heart of Brooklyn, true to its borough, Green-Wood is happening. Often hosting fun events, like musical concerts on the grounds, Green-Wood seems like a lively place for your final resting place. Created in the mid 1800s, it was considered Brooklyn’s first public park way before the creation of Prospect Park and the popularity of Green-Wood actually inspired the city to create Central Park. Famous residents include Jean-Michel Basquiat and Leonard Bernstein.

Sayulita Cemetery // Sayulita, Mexico

A Mexican fall tradition that has crossed over into the US is Día de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead (11/2). It’s a festival to remember friends and family who have died. Yes, it is mournful, but it is also beautifully colored. One of my favorite cemeteries in the world is Sayulita Cemetery, in Sayulita, Mexico. Perched on a hill overlooking the water and surf of Playa de los Muertos, you have to go through this cemetery on your walk to the beach. Like the town, it is small and colorfully rustic and no matter how crowded this little town gets over the years, the Sayulita Cemetery is still a place to find some serenity.

The Memorial Necrópole Ecumenica // Santos, Brazil

It’s an age-old problem, as real estate rises, the premium goes up on space for the dead. The Memorial Necrópole Ecumenica in Santos, Brazil has gone the way real-estate professionals have done for ages, build up! Started in 1983, today, it measures 108 meters tall, features 25,000 tombs, several wake rooms, crypts, mausoleums, a peacock garden with its own small waterfall and even a chapel and snack bar on the roof.

Closer to heaven, huh?

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Morne-à-l’Eau Cemetery // Guadeloupe, F.W.I

And last on my list is my favorite cemetery in the world. It’s so damn Instagrammable. While on a trip with Guadeloupe’s tourism board my fellow journalists and I drove past this cemetery in the commune Morne-à-l’Eau. We insisted the driver stop and give us time in this BEAUTIFUL place. The tiled black and white on the tombs and graces symbolize the passing from light to dark. A beautiful site to see, I could spend hours here. From what I heard, this cemetery is lit on All Saints Day. At dusk, candles are actually lit and this beautiful cemetery glows on the hill.

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Dancing in Cemetery by Nneya Richards

Take a tour around the beautiful Guadeloupe Cemetery!

 

Have you ever visited a cemetery while touring a city? What are some of your favorites around the world?

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Delving into Caravaggio with Roma Experience Tours

Did you know the average tourist spends two nights in Rome? It’s such a huge city with so many neighborhoods to discover, so when I first heard this stat, I thought, “how crazy!” But then I realized, my first visit to Rome was no more than 3 nights and with just the tourist sites being on my itinerary. But still, I hadn’t seen Rome. I’m still discovering Rome!

What if you’re looking for a different way to explore Rome? You still want to hit the tourist sites but maybe you’re looking for a more curated experience. That’s where the tour company Roma Experience comes in. Seeing the eternal city at dawn, Nero’s golden pleasure palace, a VR tour of the Colosseum are just a few of the special experiences this tour company offers. I had the pleasure of flashing back to my college days and fine art classes with a tour of Caravaggio and an exclusive visit to a first-class restoration lab, Merlini Storti where they restore paintings around the world from artists like Caravaggio, Raphael and Tintoretto.

Free Caravag Highlight

Caravaggio painting by Nneya Richards

If you’re an art nut listen up! Have you ever waited on line for ages to see at Caravaggio or a Titian at the MET or the Vatican, or National Museum? Did you know that in Rome, you have access to Caravaggios for free?! Caravaggio came into prominence during the Counter reformations where art and God were being brought closer to the people; paintings were being brought closer to commoners and commoners closer to the paintings. One could see both divinity and reality in art. When he arrived in Rome, it was the city of Christianity, the city of pilgrimage, the city of corruption and the city of prostitution. And that’s all reflected in his paintings — you just need to know how to look at them! And that’s what Roma Experience does. The guides implore you to open your eyes and they’ll take you through Caravaggio’s Rome.

The highlight of this experience was seeing restoration done at the Merlini-Storti Art Restoration in the heart of the city. All of those pieces painted centuries ago need a little TLC and this restoration lab is one of the best. This behind-the-scenes access until now was just that, something done behind closed doors. But Merlini-Storti recently focused on sharing their knowledge with public for people to be more sympathetic with the issue of conservation. Art through such an intimate experience. It’s a little bit of slow tourism, an off the beaten path experience in a city’s who streets you think you know everything about.

So the next time you’re in Italy, stay in Rome that extra night and have a truly unique experience with Roma Experience Tours. Check out a preview of my tour!

 

The Perfect Tagine at Dar 7 Louyat

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Michele and I in the Dar 7 Louyat kitchen

I absolutely love a sweet and savory tagine. One of my mom and my favorite places in the city is a Moroccan restaurant and despite wanting to try other things on the menu, I never can resist the lamb tagine with apricots and dates.

So, when Dar 7 Louyat offered Michele and me a traditional Moroccan cooking lesson as part of our stay we jumped at the opportunity. It’s definitely  fun to explore a market in a new city but the be immersed in a local experience like we were when shopping with Naima for our tagine ingredients, gave us a whole other view of the souk. We were apart of it! Check out my latest YouTube video to find out how we made this delicious meal of a beef tagine, fava bean soup, salad and a delicious mashed pepper and eggplant blend.

After our lesson, they plated it all beautiful for a romantic meal in the atrium.

What a unique experience. Despite the language barrier, food brings everyone together. We cooked, laughed, bonded and cried (those onions!)

Do you have a favorite tagine recipe?! Let me know!

Also be sure to watch Michele freak out over the onions! Haha

 

www.dar7louyat.com

New Video! Come explore Dar 7 Louyat!

It’s hard to choose a riad when booking in Morocco. Everyone seems more splendid than the last. We’re not sure how we came to Dar 7 Louyat, as I mentioned in my previous photo diary on my stay there, but we’re thrilled that we chose this recently restored 15th century riad. It was a feast for the eyes and our hosts made us feel as though we were visiting relatives.

Here’s a video of our great stay at Dar 7 Louyat which set the tone for our Morocco trip (more videos of Fez coming soon)! Hope this makes your decision easier!

 

 

and if you want more detail on my room, check out my IGTV on @Nneya on Instagram

Perfect Stay Dar 7 Louyat – Fez, Morocco

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“There are no small riads, you’ll see.” My friend Jen joked when I told her of Michele and my plans in Morocco.

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I don’t actually know how we found Dar 7 Louyat. Our stay at Dar 7 Louyat was one of the first things that came together for our stay in Morocco and it was our first stop. From our driver at the airport to our informal “bellhops” twists and turns in the medina, Dar 7 Louyat warmly embraced us and welcomed us to Morocco.

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The Name. Dar is a traditional old house with typical Islamic architecture. No detail is spared in this architectural style. The craftsmanship is unbelievable and there really isn’t a moment during your stay when you’re not marveling over that carving work, or painting on a door, or tiles. It’s almost overwhelming, try getting anywhere on time! Louyat means turns and 7 twists and turns lead you to this paradise in the heart of the medina.

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The house of the 7 turns this riad is a mansion from the 15th century, very close (2 minutes walk) to the oldest university in the world, the Great Mosque Qaraouyine as well as minutes away from the famed Fez tanneries. So for exploring Fez, it’s hard to find a location more perfect. The house was long inhabited by scholars of the great mosque, which perhaps lends to it’s peaceful elegance on what was once one of the most exclusive streets in the medina. It really is perfectly situated but on first glance, it is not the easiest place to get to. Dark alleyways (but it’s the medina, so that’s pretty standard) and construction make you feel as though you’re finding a paradise off the beaten path and you really are.

 

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There are 6 suites / rooms all overlooking what seems to be the pulse of the Moroccan riad, the atrium. You’re in the heart of the medina and facing inward, technically but everything is so airy and open!

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We stayed in the Tara Suite that’s the perfect size for a family of 4.

 

Birds chirping in the morning and diving into the fountain on the ground floor, golden sunsets overlooking the medina on the terrace, this place is magical.

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Every detail is insta worthy.

 


I’m going to tell you about the food in an upcoming post but this is a place where you certainly want to make it for breakfast every morning!

 

But it’s the people of Dar 7 Louyat that set the stage for Michele and my journey through Morocco. Rashid and his wife, Naima, welcomed us with mint tea and open arms. Mama Khadija took us under her wing in the kitchen — you’ll see that post soon. We needed to get to Chefchaouen a few days later and they guided us through sold out bus tickets and then renting a car. As we were on the road days later, Michele looks at me and said, I wonder what Mama Khadija is doing now. Over the next few days I’m going to take you through my wonderful stay at Dar 7 Louyat and then Fez in general but when people ask my my favorite city I visited in Morocco, I don’t hesitate with Fez. I travel to connect with the world and it’s people. Whether it’s through shared bread or smiles and warmth. I’ve stayed at some of the best hotels in the world that felt like sterile hospitals due to white glove staff. At Dar 7 Louyat you immediately feel like a part of the family.

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our cooking instructors – Mama Khadija

With rooms currently starting at 38€, I’d advise you to book now before the secret’s out!

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sunset on the terrace

ALL PHOTOS BY NNEYA RICHARDS + MICHELE SCAGLIONE

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Weekend in Bergamo via a Vespa

The last month has been full of travel: Paris, St. Tropez, Rome, Bergamo and now I’m back in London before I head to Ibiza this afternoon. Of all of the wonderful places I’ve visited in the last month, I must say, the city of Bergamo now holds a special place in my heart. Studying abroad in Milan, Bergamo was where we students flew out of for the cheaper flights. Heading to the airport, you could see the walled city in the distance up on the hill. Always found it intriguing but you know how it goes, you never take advantage of the sites nearest to you. It took almost a decade later and a very special guy to bring me to Bergamo for a weekend. To know Bergamo is to love it. Really. Whenever I tell people that my boyfriend is from there, they either have never heard of it or go bonkers and regale me with a story about their last visit to the city. It’s pretty cool. Here’s a little Vespa ride through the city I shot for my IGTV channel. Enjoy!

Beginning music by Bergamo’s very own Donizetti.

Like Mamma Does It!

“It’s good, but not like mamma makes…” If you’ve been to an Italian restaurant with an Italian person, chances are you’ve heard that phrase.

La Mia Mamma restaurant in the Chelsea neighborhood in London is giving a whole new meaning to “made in Chelsea.”

For a 28£ fixed menu that included an Aperol spritz, antipasti (3 hot, 3 cold) pasta, desert and espresso, I left pleasantly stuffed. You could have a main including in this for 10£ more (which Michele would probably do), but just the pasta was way more than enough for me. The antipasti is fresh from the market that day and the pasta is just like mamma makes it. Really. The concept of La Mamma Mia is to give the customers real Italian home cooking, 20 regions, 20 mammas cooking for you. Yes, there’s the fixed Italian restaurant menu of the chef but the specialty menu is based on the region for that month. This month (August) it’s Sicily and Sara (see her in the video below) is one of 3 wonderful mamma’s from Sicily cooking for us, taking us through summer in the sun-drenched isle of Sicily with our taste buds.

Sicily and it’s culture has always enchanted me. Italian American culture is heavily Southern and Sicilian. But Sicily, it’s Greek, Roman, Spanish and Arabic history has always gotten my history nerd rocks off. The island is on my bucket list so when my friend Marjan of Marjan Focus invited me to La Mia Mamma and I found out we’d be eating Sicilian cuisine, I couldn’t wait. Yes, there was the famed arancini then there was a casserole type potato, peas, bacon, deliciousness, polpette, stewed aubergines… Yum! This was all before our main pasta dish of a pesto with pistachio and ricotta. Don’t worry, I saved room for the Nutella and coconut mousse!

Yup, I think this place will pass the Michele seal of approval. We’ll see… Mamma Sara, I may be coming back!

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Sharing antipasti with Marjan at La Mamma Mia

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A delicious Sicilian pesto with pistacchio & ricotta

 

La Mia Mamma 257 King’s Rd, Chelsea, London SW3 5EL

New Feature on Forbes.com! Best Trips & Tips for Solo Female Travel!

Forbes’ Women vertical is all about helping women take the next step forward in business and in life. That is a goal / direction I can easily get behind. Starting this blog, I hoped to inspire more Americans to be passport holders because I truly believe that we are all global ambassadors and bridging these gaps will inspire change. In particular, I want women of color to take that next step forward and cast aside any trepidations they might have about traveling. Yes, as I mention to Forbes, we have to navigate our space in a tourism industry that primarily and historically caters to white men, but #blackgirlmagic touches on our mettle when facing obstacles, so go out and see the world!

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There are so many great tips that my fellow female travelers shared that I want to impart to you like “Talk! Talk to everyone, everyone, everyone. The more people who are familiar with you and who recognize you, the better. So, I talk to everyone in my hotel, everyone in my hostel, everyone on the bus next to me. For me, it’s about staying safe, and the best way to do that is to connect with other people who are looking out for you.” From Kelly Lewis, founder of Go Girl Guides.

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Read our tips and let me know what you think! My travel spirit sister and I, Alyssa Ramos of My Life’s a Movie, both chose locales in Mexico. So build a wall. You might find us on the other side….

 

Why I did NOT like the Blue Pearl of Morocco, Chefchaouen

Nneya in Chefchaouen by Michele Scaglione

And this is when I was feeling it!

For good and for bad, social media influences how we travel. I aim to inspire you to go to new places, try new foods, interact with new people! I also attempt to show you what it’s like behind the scenes and remain authentic. Sometimes my trips are sponsored by an airline or a tourism board. Sometimes I’m getting access to places that you might not — although more often than not lately, my fellow journalists and I do speak out to our hosts and say, “ok, is this something that the general public can do?” It’s nice when they impress us but many times, for our articles as journalists it’s useless to experience something we can’t write about because it was done especially for us. In the blogging world, we wake up at sunrise for that amazing shot of the Taj Mahal without the crowds. I’ve been on influencer trips with some ridiculously talented photographers that do composite images to get that oh so perfect starry night in the Serengeti. Based on a true story.

Chef Nneya Michele Scaglione

If you only knew the coaxing it took from Michele for me to stand for this photo

Having said all of this, I implore you to listen to the story behind the photos. It’s ok to not like a place that everyone else raves about. Your experiences are uniquely your own! It’s just like reading that hyped Oprah’s book club book and finding it a bit dull. Perhaps it is because of the effort (and costs) that we put into traveling that we feel uncomfortable saying when experiences aren’t all that we hoped for. Given this, I want to share my experience with a city I visited on my boyfriend and my trip to Morocco. I was so excited to visit this place because of the pictures and friends that love it.

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I was excited to visit Chefchaouen in the Rif mountains of Northwest Morocco. I deliberated over blue outfits that would pop for pictures. I read articles, blog posts, got recommendations from friends and insisted to my boyfriend that it was “kind of on our way” and simple to get there; it should definitely be on our itinerary. Why was it blue? Was it mosquitoes? Was it painted blue by the Jews that fled there escaping the Spanish and then Hitler? Was it a Moroccan tradition? I was excited to deep dive and find out.

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Most people said, “you just need to spend a night or two there.” But nonetheless they raved about it. “You will absolutely love Chefchaouen. I needed more of a photographer’s eye to truly capture it – your pics will be insane.” No one recommended more than 2 nights there but it seemed fair given the 4.5 hour bus ride. But again, with my friends Aaron and Naomi — amazing visual content creators — telling me they just spent a night there (and Aaron seeming unimpressed) I felt confident with Michele and I passing one night. Thank you Aaron Purkey for being the only one to say, “yea, you really just need a few hours there at most.” For booking all of our hotels in Morocco, I reached out to the properties to confirm availability. When booking our stay at a hotel in Chefchaouen I did the same. The son of the owner then direct messaged me on Instagram…. He introduced himself and said “he can help [me] if I want something.” Well, I thought I made it pretty clear in the email that I wanted a room and was asking for availability but nonetheless I responded to him. At the same time the hotel email responded to me asking my dates, then the name of my guest and said “there is one room available, would you like to take it?” I said yes and thought we were all booked everything they needed to reserve. Flash forward to a week before our departure as I confirmed with all of the hotels. “I apologize Sir but the date is full.” BTW it was not full via Booking.com. I then DMmed the owner’s son who said, “No you didn’t confirm with me. That’s why the hotel said that that’s there is not room. But if you want to confirm with them you can talk now and they will give you a room.” I sent them the messages on Instagram from the owner’s son and received the reply, “Hello — We contacted the owner’s son and told us that he told you all the hotel information but he did not confirm your reservation because he did not know if there was a room available that day.”

Huh? After confirming professionally on email was I then to double confirm with a kid who liked to pose in front of cars on Instagram? Bookings seemed to be going fast so before I lost my temper, my boyfriend stepped in a booked a hotel from Booking.com. It was fine for the night and the rooftop had a beautiful view of the city and the mountains. But maybe this was a hint of what was to come in Chefchaouen.

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Now let’s talk about getting there. It was not easy. But the journey to Chefchaouen was actually one of my favorite parts of our holiday. While in Fez people told us that we could show up at the bus terminal and get tickets the day of. Michele decided not to get our tickets online from CTM (the European bus company with the nice coaches). Michele was the logistics and transportation manager of our trip. When we told our hosts at Dar 7 Louyat of our trip that day before they said we’ll walk you to the station to get the bus tickets. The ticket office was closed. So it turned into one of them picking up the tickets for us. We were shocked to find out all of the tickets for the next two days were sold out! A driver was suggested and Michele (after our hosts at Dar 7 Louyat seconded the idea) decided that we would rent a car and drive the 4 hours ourselves. Our hosts didn’t hesitate or seem worried when we suggested it and it was pretty much a straight road. So, that next morning, they drove us to the airport and Michele and I rented a car and headed to Chefchaouen. It is an absolutely beautiful drive. There are a lot of speed traps and police hoping to make quick cash from them so beware. Michele got out of one!

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Renting a car gives you a lot of freedom. But you have to know where to park it. In Lisbon, we got a boot on our car about an hour into our trip, so Michele and I were extra cautious. GoogleMaps is fine on the big roads in Morocco, but when you get to the city centers and medinas it can throw you. Naturally we ended up in a back alley with an off looking guy saying for 4 euros he’ll watch our car and will show us the way to our hotel (a less than professional looking porter showing you the way to your hotel in the medina is not uncommon, and actually quite useful in a lot of places). Everyone has a hustle, and I respect that, but sir, do not ask to get into our car. We told him we’d pass and found a big hotel square with a parking lot. Who did we see hustling to our car but him! He must have sprinted. Again, he told us 4 euros. We spoke directly to the parking attendant and were told an actual price of 2 euros. But still, the back alley dude insisted on showing us to our hotel. It’s hard to say no and you know they’re going to ask for money at the end, even if you know the way, so you end up just checking your wallet to make sure you have some change and resign yourself to it.

It was this walk where Michele picked up a gnarled-face drug dealer.

Michele in Alley Chefchaouen

Michele looking like an NCAA player heading to training camp.

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Le Rif – paradis du Kif. I saw that little rhyme on a few sites when researching Chefchaouen. The Rif mountains are a hub of cannabis plantations in Morocco with much of the drugs heading to Spain and then the rest of Europe. It’s been said more than half of the world’s cannabis comes from Morocco. Not only is this blue city an insta-dream but it’s a smoker’s paradise, many coming as a sort of pilgrimage. And tons of stag parties from Spain. Don’t grimace too hard when you see that barefoot blond white boy walking through the alleys chatting with his blonde dreadlocked girlfriend (ech, his feet were so gross).

So yea, on the walk to the hotel, Michele, being half a foot taller than everyone else and wearing a snapback, stands out. A guy comes up to him, talking pleasantries, then offers him drugs, unbeknownst to me. Now here’s the difference in Michele and I when it comes to sales people. The best way to sell me something is to let me browse in peace, I’ll come to you and ask questions. The harder you push, the more frustrated I get and I’ll walk away. Michele respects the hustle a little more and will indulge the hard seller. Instead of saying “no,” he’ll say “later.” My innocent babe didn’t realize a carpet seller should be handled a little differently than a drug dealer. So when the gnarled face drug dealer offered in front of our hotel, Michele said “later.”

We check in and leave our hotel an hour later. Who’s waiting outside but gnarled faced, ready to make a deal! Really, the dude looked like he had been a knife fight, a few times. “No, not now.” Michele sputtered through excuses thinking he didn’t want to anger the guy by saying “no.” In Gnarley’s defense, Michele did say later and he waited for an hour! I’d be pissed as well! This goes on for 10-15 minutes with him following us down alleys and calling his friends, offering Michele a kilo, me saying this is ridiculous and interjecting in Spanish, rolling my eyes and getting very close to getting very Brooklyn in Morocco. Then he gave Michele little plastic packets that looked like hard drugs. After research I realized hashish is often smuggled in packets with resin so I’m going to assume that’s what it was. I flipped and said “No!” This was too much, “Damn you for looking like an American bro and making us the target of drug-dealers,” I told Michele. “You’re too naive! You need to tell those people no from the beginning, he has every right to be mad! He knows where we’re staying.” Eventually, really irate he gave up. But he did not look like a dude you wanted to mess with so naturally I was worried that if we went back to our hotel, he’d be there waiting with his boys. While they were going back and forth, he mentioned he couldn’t sell later because he was heading up to the mountains at 7pm. I prayed that was true. So as I wandered down the blue-tinted alleys, I was also looking over our shoulders. It’s not uncommon to be offered drugs here. Sometimes in the same breath as being offered a rug. It is what it is, but if you don’t want it, just say a simple no.

Watching our back in Chefchaouen

One of the many pictures of me watching our back.

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“Hey Senegal,” “Mama Africa” I had been warned about racism in Morocco. My passport photo guy told me of the divide between North Africa and sub-Sahara on the continent. A friend on a photoshoot warned me of her experiences there and being assumed to be a prostitute. Michele revealed to me after our experience in Chefchaouen that it was something he has been worried about before our trip. I can honestly say I did not feel any discomfort being a black person in Morocco except while in Chefchaouen. The leering really creeped me out (I was in a long dress and had a scarf covering my shoulders save for photos, that being said I saw white and asian women in booty shorts and tank tops — it’s a stoner town after all). The comments were exhausting and often creepy. You might not know what they are saying but I damn sure didn’t like the way they were saying it. As Michele and I tried to rationalize the difference later we thought, maybe it was the mountains? Like the idea of being up in Appalachia? Marrakesh and Fez were cities with tourists, students, religious pilgrims and therefore more used to people of color? But we spent time in the Imlil Valley in the Atlas Mountains and the Berber people there were as warm and welcoming as could be and didn’t stare at me like a gazelle in a hyena den. There is a spidey sense you have as a person of color. You know, something is just not right here. There was a sexualization in the leering by people that looked dead behind the eyes. I didn’t even get a half smile from the woman as I did in other places in Morocco. This isn’t Disney, they don’t have to smile at me, but I’ll pass on the hostility.

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I’m talking bus loads of tourists streaming in. Asian tour groups all volleying for the shot in that one alley, then, after a few hours, they seem to get back on the bus and move along. They had the right idea. Shopping is more expensive here too so save it for Fez or Marrakesh if you can.

But that alley is pretty damn cute.

Michele in Chefchaouen Alley

Michele in the widely photographed tourist alley.

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I chose to wear blue and really do up a color play. Michele suggested I wear an orange that popped. Do note that you’ll probably have to adjust your camera settings to warmer, especially if in the alleys because the blue walls do cast a cool tone on everything, including you. The whites will look blueish and have your eyes looking like Ivar the Boneless in Vikings.

Nneya in Chefchaouen by Michele Scaglione

This was the stairway entrance to the restaurant where we had dinner.

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My friend Jamie of The Wild Grays did say this. The food was fine, but after our delicious meal that we made at Dar 7 Louyat, the food in Chefchaouen felt like over-priced and so so. We avoided the square and found a well-reviewed place on a side alley. It was cute but easily my least memorable meal in Morocco.

Michele at Dinner

Michele at dinner. An Italian with limited dinner options is not a pretty picture.

 

Now I know you might say well there’s a lot of natural beauty in Chefchaouen that we missed. A waterfall, stream etc. Yea, the drug dealer tried to sell us on that. We also heard that the other side of those photos that you don’t see there’s a lot of trash leading up to the streams. We had a really lovely time in the Imlil Valley a few days later with waterfalls and sunsets on the Atlas mountains so we got our mountain experience in Morocco.

Sunset in Chefchaouen

Sunset in the Rif Mountains

Nneya + Michele Night in Chefchaouen

Safe and sound in our hotel looking at the city.

Yes I realize the prices are expensive because it is a tourist town and from what I have researched it is poorer than other Moroccan cities. There’s an unfair transaction to coming to a place simply for the photos and then leaving without giving back (even in the form of financial stimulus). There were some lovely parts. Listening to the call of prayer reverberating in the mountains was almost trance-inducing. I’m happy that I saw it and was able to draw this assessment for myself, but yea, I thought that Chefchaouen was an overpriced tourist trap. And that was my experience. But nevertheless — stay on the lookout for the great visuals we created there for you!

Us in alley in Chefchaouen

At the end of the day, it’s hard not to have a great time with this guy.

PHOTOS BY NNEYA RICHARDS & MICHELE SCAGLIONE

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